The New Santos de Cartier Dual Time

It makes perfect sense for the world’s first custom-made pilot’s wristwatch to be equipped with a dual-time function. Fair enough, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont probably didn’t cross too many time zones in his early flying machines, but combining the iconic Santos watch designed for him by Louis Cartier with dual time indications is a match made in heaven. Not to be confused with the Santos-Dumont lineup of slimmer, flatter and more elegant models inspired by the historic 1904 original, this Santos de Cartier novelty belongs to the revamped 2018 family. The latest Cartier Santos Dual Time, often described as Cartier’s vision of a luxury sports watch, is the first member of the contemporary Santos family to receive a dual time complication.

Displaying iconic Cartier Roman numerals, a railway minutes track and sword-shaped hour and minute hands, the dial has an elegant anthracite colour with a silky sunray-brushed finish. To stand out against the grey dial, the Roman numerals are silver, matching the handset. The date window has been repositioned at 3 o’clock to incorporate the dual time complication and blends into the scenery with its grey background.

Offering two different time zones at a glance, the dual time function is displayed in a light grey sub-dial with snailing and black numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. To accommodate the complication, the sub-dial creates an arch-shaped indentation in the square minutes track. A small depression at the top of the sub-dial reveals the day/night indicator in grey and white.

The Cartier Santos Dual Time comes in a large (for Cartier) 100m water-resistant stainless steel case with a 40.2mm diameter, a length of 47.5mm and a thickness of 10.1mm. In line with the 2018 overhaul, the iconic square case features soft, rounded corners with crown guards and the 7-sided crown set with its signature sapphire cabochon. The polished bezel with its eight exposed screws rests on top of the vertically brushed case middle with polished bevels. With its curved caseback and short lugs, the watch sits flush on the wrist. The classic bracelet with its two screws at either end of the links is brushed and can be easily exchanged for the grey alligator strap provided with the watch thanks to Cartier’s QuickSwitch interchangeable system.

The automatic movement is not in-house; Cartier has chosen not to reveal the name of its partner (supplier) in the equation. What we do know is that it beats at a frequency of 4Hz, has a 40h power reserve and the independent time zone and day/night functions are adjusted at the crown.

The Cartier Santos Dual Time retails for CHF 8,800. For more information, please consult cartier.com.