The Loveliest Patek Philippe 5236P-010, the Salmon Dial Version

The ref. 5236P, unveiled by Patek Philippe in 2021, is a veritable time capsule inspired by the linear perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s and 1960s. Think of the ref. 725/4 with its American digital perpetual calendar or the ref. 699, which also boasted a minute repeater. The magic lies in its calendar display, nestled within a single, horizontal window at the top of the dial. This clever design sets it apart from the conventional multi-sub-dial calendar displays. The “American” reference? That’s a nod to the date format used – month first, followed by the date, and finally, the day of the week. This same straight-line calendar display is reborn in the ref. 5236P lacks the American designator and is powered by an ingeniously crafted new calendar mechanism, the 31-260 PS QL. Upon its launch, Patek Philippe presented a stunning platinum-cased version with a blue dial. This year, the brand introduced a salmon-dial reference 5236-010; it stole hearts like a master thief in the night. We had the distinct pleasure of handling this irresistible timepiece, and parting with it was a heart-wrenching ordeal, rivalled only by the exhilaration of the time we spent with it. 

While its vintage pocket-sized inspiration flaunted a 46mm diameter, the modern ref. 5236P elegantly houses its perpetual calendar mechanism within a 41.3mm case, standing 11.07mm thick. This makes it one of the most substantial QPs in Patek Philippe’s lineup – compare it to the 39mm x 9.71mm ref. 5327G or the 5320G, which was by no means a small Patek at 40mm x 11.13mm. The wide mid-case amplifies the presence, yet the inclined lugs and tall, sloping bezel ensure an air of refined elegance.

The signed crown, positioned conventionally, is used only for manual winding and time-setting; it is easy to operate. The existing trend to avoid the integrated pushers and have them replaced by multi-functional crowns and push-pieces has escaped the creators of this contemporary classic. Four seamlessly integrated corrector pushers grace the case sides of the 5236P: the pusher at 2 o’clock adjusts the month and year, the one at 10 o’clock is for the date, with the two buttons immediately below changing the day of the week and moon phase. Reading the instructions manual is highly advisable, as settings are less intuitive than some wish. Overall, the case exhibits perfect proportions, boasting a balanced modern profile. Some may consider the platinum 5236P-010 hefty and even large, yet it is a pleasantly comfortable watch, and the dial makes it simply irresistible.

The salmon dial of the In-line Perpetual Calendar 5236P-010 is a sight to behold, with its functional simplicity adding to its beauty. The applied faceted baton-style hour indices and matching baton hour and minute hands, all crafted in white gold, are made charcoal grey and, with the contrasting opaline surface, make reading time effortless. The perpetual calendar display, featuring a stepped frame aperture for the day, date, and month, instantly lets you grasp your place in time. Noticeable are the four discs, with the two in the middle for the date, a hint at the complexity of the underlying mechanism.

The clean, detailed minutes railroad track, complete with numerals at 5-minute intervals, pays homage to classic timepieces. The moon phase indicator with its stars and moons against a dark blue background – which is more of a decorative element here, for it is pretty small to follow the cycle – is elegantly integrated within the recessed and snailed running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, accompanied by a small round aperture on the right for the leap year and a day/night indicator on the opposite side. There’s nothing to add or take away or wish for (an instantaneous calendar change, maybe, but this is a request to the movements department); it is a perfect dial for a timepiece packing the perpetual calendar functions. User-friendly, simple, yet impossible to look away.

Turning the watch over, we are greeted by the beautifully displayed back of the movement. The calibre 31-260 PS QL, comprising 503 parts, showcases an exquisite mix of decoration techniques and finishes, bearing Patek Philippe’s quality hallmark. Among the components that capture attention are the balance cock and the Gyromax balance with its four regulating weights, the individual finger bridges for the going train with wide-rimmed wheels, the barrel bridge, and the off-centred unidirectional mini-rotor crafted in platinum for automatic winding, all adorned with gold engravings.

The Geneva stripes applied uniformly to all the bridges, the rounded and polished anglage, and the overall meticulous presentation of the base movement showcase Patek Philippe’s commitment to aesthetic excellence and balance within the grand complication concept. However, the dial—rather than the “intricacies” of the movement the caseback reveals – truly captivates, no offence to the skilled artisans behind its creation. And should you not want the distraction, Patek provides an interchangeable solid caseback to hide the calibre from view – though to switch, you need to go to an authorized service representative.

To summarize the experience, since it was introduced in 2021, ref. 5236P has unequivocally emerged as Patek’s most important perpetual calendar watch, with an impressive array of technical features that make the calendar display possible and backed by an astute layout and overall design. With the 5236P-010 it lives up to this title. In the grand scheme of things, the ref. 5236P-010 stands as a masterful creation, a refreshing addition to the perpetual calendar world. The choice of dial colour makes such a difference – the dark blue suited the 5236 well, yet the “opaline rose-gilt” surely checked the wish boxes of many.

The Patek Philippe 5236P-010 In-line Perpetual Calendar with a salmon dial we handled was secured on the wrist with a shiny chocolate brown alligator leather strap, closed with a platinum fold-over clasp. The price is CHF 120,000, and 5236P-010 is part of the permanent collection.

For additional details, visit patek.com.