The More Compact Seiko King Seiko KSK 36mm SPB457J1, SPB459J1 & SPB461J1

Seiko’s announcement in 2020 heralding the return of the long-slumbering King Seiko created a stir. As our readers will remember, Grand Seiko and King Seiko sub-brands were the result of an interesting experiment to promote competition between the Dani Seikosha (Grand Seiko) and Suwa Seikosha (King Seiko) watchmaking facilities. Pitched as internal rivals in the 1960s, the idea was designed to stimulate healthy competition and push both sub-brands to achieve ever-higher degrees of accuracy and become the brand’s flagship model. While its name suggests dynastic supremacy, King Seiko did not enjoy Grand Seiko’s uninterrupted trajectory and fell prey to the vicissitudes of quartz. After a long hibernation, Seiko decided to awaken King Seiko in 2020 with the KSK SJE083, based on a vintage model from 1965. Now a standalone collection, the latest news from King Seiko is the introduction of three 36mm models with dial colours that evoke the preppy Ivy Style and some novelties regarding the bracelet.

Until today, the KSK collection (KS meaning King Seiko and the K for Kisei-Tsuki, stop-seconds) in Japanese features three-hand models in 37mm (no date) and 38.3mm (with date) diameters. The new 36mm model is the smallest to date but shares the angular, vintage-inspired case with faceted lugs from its KSK ancestors. Alternating bright mirror-polished or Zaratsu-polished surfaces with hairline finishings and fitted with a box sapphire crystal, the 11.62mm-thick case plays up its retro architecture. The crown and caseback bear the original King Seiko emblem and the case is water-resistant to 100 meters.

New to this watch is the way the bracelet is attached to the case. Unlike the larger models, which have three links extending from the lug to join the first row of the tapering 7-link bracelet, the new watches have a straight connection that makes the watch look even more compact. Another advantage of this new bracelet attachment is the double-lever system that lets you remove the bracelet in a jiffy and exchange it for any of the ten different leather straps sold separately. The vintage-inspired bracelet is fitted with a contemporary deployment clasp with push buttons.

Another novelty is the “Ivy Style” colours used for the dials, a reference to the Ivy League schools in the Northeastern US, where the preppy look originated in the late 1950s and made its way to Japan in the 1960s. The classical colour of the ubiquitous button-down Oxford shirts inspires the light blue dial (SPB457J1). The ivy green dial (SPB459J1) reproduces the colour of regimental ties popular on Ivy League campuses, while the burgundy dial (SPB461J1) is often seen on rugby shirts. The applied rectangular indices are polished to catch the light, and the signature marker at noon is double the width with a fine pyramid-patterned texture. The flat, faceted hands are also Zaratsu polished to a bright gleam and look sharp enough to cut through silk. Also new to the 36mm is the use of Lumibrite on the hands and indices for improved legibility in the dark.

Instead of the in-house automatic calibre 6R31 powering the larger models, the 36mm KSK relies on the Seiko 6R51 no-date, which has a slightly longer power reserve of 72 hours. This is only a small improvement over the 70 hours the 6R31 provides, but an improvement nonetheless. The calibre runs at a rate of 21,600vph and is regulated to run within -15 to +25 seconds per day, although it’s widely known that Seiko’s movements run well within that bandwidth.

The 36mm KSK watch trilogy retails for EUR 2,000 a piece, a slight increase in price compared to previous editions. Sales start on 1 September 2024 and the watches are not limited by number.

For more information, please visit Seikowatches.com.